Tag Archives: Jane & Marie’s Italy Trip 2016

Jane & Marie in Sicily…Part 2

I will tell you up front that we did NOT meet any Barone family members.  We may have been close.  We will never know.  

The car we rented was a VW Golf.  Nice car.  Had warning beepers when you get too close, front, back and both sides.  This car was NOT meant for Naro, Sicily.

Once again I got ahead of myself…

We left Marsala (and all that floating DNA) for Naro.  The drive was around two hours.  We were happy for the opportunity to explore more spectacular scenery while dodging Italians behind the wheel.  We managed to do both.  

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We finally saw it…NARO! A shining village perched on top of an exquisite hill.  Just like in the storybooks.  

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Our GPS, Missy, was set for Barone Autocarrozzeria.  When we arrived at the location we couldn’t see it.  We parked the car and spotted two gentlemen and a waitress chatting in the doorway of a local eatery.   We asked them if they knew where the Barone Auto place was (more pointing and hand gestures).  They pointed across the street, we walked over, but all we saw was this…

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“Must be on the other side of the building”, we thought.  So, around we went and…no…nothing.  Back around the three were still chatting and watching us.  I pointed to one of the doors and they shook their heads.  We went to the next door…They shook their heads no again, but looked hopeful pointing to the next door.  Didn’t look like an auto place to us, or for that matter, any kind of business place at all.  Jane nor I are easily daunted.  We have already proven that.  So across the street to the trio we went.  Here’s how we understood the next attempt at conversation.

Us:  “Are you sure that’s the Barone Garage?”
Waitress:  “Yes, it was.”
Us:  “Was?”
Waitress: “Yes, they moved a long time ago.”

We just sort of stared at them for a minute.  Thanked them for their “guida” and once again went on our merry way.  We laughed about that at least once a day, everyday, for the remainder of our journey.  I don’t think we improved the image of American intelligence one bit on that little stop.

Jane remembered pictures of Piero in front of St Erasmus Church.  So, we shifted our goal and the car and off we went up the village hill. The further up we got the narrower the roads became until there were mere inches on either side of the car and the warning beepers were going off in tandem!  Jane had to squeeze out of the car twice to guide me between stone buildings.  The second time was when we came to a dead end and I had to back down a steep narrow hill.  WILL THOSE BEEPERS NEVER STOP!?!  I heard a distinctive crunch. I had visions of my 1200 dollar deposit flying out of the car window.  Then Jane yelled, “it was a plastic bottle!”  Whew!  Just then I had another vision.  It was me trapped inside the car wedged between buildings and the villagers were pointing and laughing at another American tourist, in a rental car, trying to drive their village streets. Then Jane would be scrambling for the “jaws of life” or a crowbar or at least a can opener to try to pry me out.

Here is one of the wider two-way streets.  When it got really narrow pictures were not our main priority!

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If I told you even some of the things I said during that little drive this post would be a whole lot longer.  I later apologized to Jane for some of the words I’m not telling you that I said.   All Jane really said that entire tense time was, “Piero, Naro is certainly narrow”. Oh, she said it more than once. 

We finally found our way down the hill and out of Naro only to discover that tonight’s reservation was back up the hill.  We took a vote and it was two to zero (Missy refused to vote) NOT to trek back up to the village. 

Piero, we didn’t make it to meet your family, but the age and beauty of your narrow little village and the surrounding country blew us away!

A mile or so down the road, in the middle of nowhere, we found this oasis:

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When we checked in I gave the manager our card he turned his CD on to “L’amore Si Muove”  and told us that Ignazio stays there when he comes to visit Piero.  (Whats the matter big boy?  Afraid to drive those roads too?) When we got to our room I turned to Jane and said, “Ignazio could have stayed in this very room.  Could have slept on this very bed!”  I soon rolled around on that bed…just in case.   By now I should have gathered enough DNA to make my very own lovely tenor.

We had dinner in this stunning restaurant of our Oasis.  We were the only ones in the entire place.

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Oh, those warm, friendly and so lovable Italians!  The owner, Franchesca, her son, our waiter and the cooks all came out to meet the crazy lost American women.  Several of them were dreaming about coming to America to work.  You know, “America…land of plenty…Land of Ilvolovers… land of wide roadways”.

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It was hard to leave such a gorgeous place and its wonderful people, but we must return the car to Palermo and ourselves to Naples to catch a train for our next destination…The Cinque Terre’s…Riomaggiore and Portofino…The Italian Riviera

~Marie~

Jane & Marie in Sicily…Part 1

Let me tell you about Sicily.  So different from northern Italy.  Reminded me of Arizona or New Mexico – arid, warm, sunny.   We even watched a gecko play on a sun baked wall while enjoying the warm breeze sitting in the shade of our Marsala Villa. 

I digress…

Montepagano to Naples was our longest drive.  We arrived in Naples in the late afternoon and happily gave up our rental car once we reached the city.  Very crazy drivers live there.  Here is a photo of the building across from our balcony and one of the plaza in the historic section of Naples.  So representative of what we saw of the city.  

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Naples was just a stop over for us and we would see it again in a few days.  We wanted to be ready for our early morning flight to Palermo. So, we walked a few blocks, ate at an outdoor ‘ristorante’ on a small plaza and went back to “Bruno’s Historic Home”.

Palermo..city of my ancestors.  With the dazzlingly beautiful abundant mountain ranges on our left and the elegant Tyrrhenian Sea then the Mediterranean Sea on our right we knew we had made the correct decision to drive this amazing island.

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Breathtaking barely describes the drive.

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Marsala has houses that look like adobe.  The Streets are wide enough for one and a half cars.  Drivers will pass you anyway!  It’s a wonder there are any Italians/Sicilians left alive!  It’s not just that the streets are narrow, but the houses are all connected and right on the street. The streets are more like narrow alleys.  No curbs. No sidewalks.  Just a string of adobe walls.  They park and live inside these.

The  city turned out to be larger than we thought.  A lot larger….I know that because we were lost there most of the time and drove around looking for our next stop-over.  We gave up (so did Missy) and stopped at a small store.  Naturally Jane and I were the only English speaking people around.  Fortunately, “mi dispiace” (I’m sorry) and “guida” (help) were two of the Italian words I had practiced and ended up using the most…everywhere.  Jane became an expert in Italian sign language, pointing at addresses on paper and making herself understood. We were saved, once again, by handsome Italian men (why did I ever leave?) One fellow called the owner of our B&B then hopped in his car and led us to meet her….another point for a gracious people.  What a lovely place Villa Rustiko was! It had an equally lovely owner, named Matina.  Who, by the way, sang with a Ignazio when they were in school. 

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What we were really waiting for was to meet Nina and we were about to do just that.  She knew we were coming, so you can imagine how excited we were when we drove up to…

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I think Nina’s smile is even more captivating than her brothers.  Yes, I said that…just look… that’s Nina flanked by her happy helpers.

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We gave her a gift from all of the Flight Crew.

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She seemed to really like it and immediately put it on (her eyes light up like her brothers too!)  Later when I asked to take a picture of her wearing it she brushed away the flour that had landed on the apron from her work. Now, didn’t that make it even more special? 

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Using some of Jane’s expert hand signals and a translator app, we spoke with Nina for a while.   Then she made us a marvelous mushroom and sausage pizza. 

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I must tell you that I dreamed of this!  Eating pizza at Nina’s!  Life is good! 

I’m sure Nina thinks I have a learning disability.  All I remember doing was nodding and throwing my hands around a lot.  I was, after all, surrounded by Boschetto DNA and wanted to gather up as much as I could.  Jane wrote a sweet note for Nina’s brother on the back of our Flight Crew card.  After about two hours and more slow conversation (that would be Jane..I was still flapping and gathering) we said our goodbyes and returned to our splendid Villa for the night.

Next I’ll take you to (shudder) Naro.

Nostra Grande Avventura Italiana…Montepagano!

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We left Assisi via a cab with Marcello, a friendly Italian, driving us through the countryside to Perugia where we would rent our first car.  After nearly two hours of waiting for our car to be ready we were ready to roll.  Didn’t mind the wait as we were getting used to the Italian way of doing things…relaxed and at their own pace.  Our new best friend, our GPS, was named Missy by Marie.  Marie had studied her road signs and Italian rules of driving very well, but there were times when Missy had a mind of her own telling us to turn a sharp left and go directly into a mountain!  Missy eventually straightened herself out and quickly became a best friend you never wanted to lose!  Marie deserves a gold medal (or a date with Ignazio) for maneuvering her way along the busy autostradas and not being hit off the road by crazy fast drivers!  We also never did quite figure out what the warning signal was that kept beeping on our GPS with a little blue camera icon on it.  All the other cars were going way faster than we were so we figured we couldn’t have been speeding.  Maybe they just like taking pictures of American girls driving Italian cars!

With the help of Missy, we found our way to Montepagano!  We drove up a mighty narrow simple road to finally get there.  Our B&B was just outside the main street of the little village.  The owner, Daniela, greeted us warmly.  She spoke  little English so out came the translators on our phone and ipad that proved to be of great value during this entire trip.
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Within one hour of our arriving in this picturesque village we were walking to the town square with Daniela who introduced us to Gianluca’s Nonno, who just happened to be coming out of the cafe.  We were wearing our Il Volo t-shirts so smiles and recognition came quickly to all who saw us.  This dear man opened up an envelope of pictures he had had developed and gave each of us a photo of his precious grandson.  What a gift!     Nonno graciously allowed us to take his picture with us, we thanked him and moved on.  Within 2 more minutes down the street came Ercole right towards us!  Daniela introduced him to us as he lit up seeing our t-shirts!  Marie handed him a Flight Crew web site card and explained who we were, how many people read the site from how many countries world wide.  I thanked him for sharing his son with the world.  He smiled as Daniela translated for us and then let us take a photo with him.  Such kindness in that family.  It’s no wonder they have such wonderful sons!  Then Daniela took us to where the guys filmed their video of  L amore Si Muove, showing us exactly where certain scenes were shot.  I’m sure you will recognize them by the photos as we did.
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Then Daniela asks us if we’d like to take a passeggiata?  Of course we would!  So we strolled down the main street and soon came upon another Ginoble!  Uncle Dominic!  He stopped and chatted with us telling us about the oil boats he used to work on in the United States when he was young.  Marie and I were in total awe as we absorbed what was going on around us.  It was all too good to be real, but it really WAS happening!  Daniela’s daughter, Letizia, had joined us for our passeggiata, too.  What a sweet girl.  She had pictures of her with her friend, Gianluca, on her phone that she was very proud of.  We then returned to our B&B for the night and marveled as to what just took place!
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 The next morning Daniela brought a friend of hers, Anna, to visit with us at breakfast as Anna spoke fairly good English.  Daniela told us that she had seen Ercole this morning and he had asked her if we had plans on going to Sicily also?  We told her we did as that was where we were headed next.  She said she would let him know.  I wrote a short note to Gianluca on the back of a Flight Crew card and gave it to Daniela to give to him next time she sees him.  She happily tucked it into her wallet and said she would be sure he got it.
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And so, our first encounter with being Ambassadors of the Flight Crew was a complete success!  Oh yes, how could I forget…within 24 hours of us being with his family members,  Gianluca then said hello to the Flight Crew, their American Fan Club (!) during their interview in New York!  Two very happy ladies headed down the autostrada with Missy, on to their next adventure...Marsala!  
~~Jane~~

Nostra Grande Avventura Italiana~Assisi

Onward to Assisi we go!  We took a Regional train to Assisi and enjoyed the variety of the terrain as we sped along a track unknown to us.  We marveled at the beauty each region of Italy holds.  I had visions of Under the Tuscan Sun in my head and was not disappointed as we rode through that area.  The countryside was covered like a patchwork quilt with olive groves and vineyards.  We were not unlike school children staring out the window on a field trip to some new destination.  It’s hard to imagine a train ride as being thrilling, but this one certainly was for us.

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We took a cab from the train station up into the hills of Assisi.  This being our first taxi ride of the trip we quickly became aware of the shall I say, skill and expertise it takes to be a taxi driver in this country!  Our driver sped through those streets like he’d been doing this since he was 2, narrowly missing people, cars and buildings!   What an amazing first impression we had taking in all of the narrow streets lined with people browsing the shop windows, or just enjoying the storybook atmosphere this ancient town possesses.  Our hotel was right in the heart of this beloved town located in a beautiful 600 year old building.  Yes, Jana, I remembered your advice and touched these magnificent ancient stones whenever I could.  Our room was very tiny by American standards , but seemed to be the norm for over there.  I mean it was so tiny Marie could reach out from her bed and shut the bathroom light off without having to budge out of that bed!  Lying there listening to the beautiful church bells chime every hour made the size of the room feel pretty insignificant.   It was so worth it to be staying right in the heart of all of our destinations! 

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We explored all of Assisi we could possibly muster up the strength to as it is ALL HILLS...and what you go down you must eventually go back up again.  Our visit to St. Francis Basilica was the highlight of this town for us.  Besides always having a love of St. Francis,  I had such a strong desire to see this church ever since watching the video of  the guys singing there for that Christmas Special several years ago.  It was extraordinary.  No cameras or speaking allowed, just pure reverence prevails in that holy structure.  No pictures I could have taken would ever have done it justice. 

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We bid Assisi a reluctant farewell and hired a very nice taxi driver named, Marcello, to drive us on to Perugia where we would pick up our first rental car of the trip.  More adventures ahead as we are on our way to Montepagano!    

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~~Jane~~

Jane and Marie and our Trip of a Lifetime

Wonderful, wonderful Italy.  You opened your arms wide, embraced us like family and you didn’t even know who we were.  You  explained your love of all things ancient and modern.  You shared with us food from sea, land and tree.  You showed us amazing shades of green and clear blue.  Your culture suited us.  Your weather was fine.  Your landscapes unbelievable!  Your food, well…superb.  But your people…your people…I don’t have the words to describe the warmth we encountered from those unforgettable Italian people.   No wonder our Boys can’t wait to get home.  No wonder the Trevi Fountain is so full of coin.  No wonder those of you who have been there desire desperately to return.  Haven’t been there?  Go now so that you can begin to plan your return trip soon.

To tell all we did and all we saw would certainly fill a book.  We went everywhere. We saw everything!  We were tired yet ready.  Overwhelmed yet willing.  And most of all, we wish we could have brought it all home to you, our beloved Crew.

Jane, sitting next to the airplane window just as it was beginning to turn daylight drew my attention to funny looking clouds below.  We were still about an hour out of Milan, Italy. Then Jane said, “wait, are those mountains?”  Sure enough they were.  It was just about then the sun decided to rise. It was orange and it turned the snow on those Swiss Alps a beautiful deep golden color.  It took our breath away.  We stared in stunned silence afraid to even look away long enough to grab a camera.  We were truly transfixed by those snow capped peaks glistening in the gold of our first European sunrise. Oh, It would take a better writer than I to explain to you clearly what that looked like. 

We landed in Milan and took the train directly to Venice.  Later, dinner while facing the Grande Canal of Venice, we watched striped clad gondoliers at their work gliding down the canal and listened to locals greet each other in that romantic language.  I fed bread to a tiny sparrow who jumped on our table to welcome us to beautiful bountiful Italy.  Our first dinner was classic spaghetti with meat sauce and a glass of fine Merlot.  Later Gelato while strolling narrow stone walkways along the canal.  There were church bells outside our ancient brick apartment window at bedtime where we snuggled under down comforters.  We have fallen in love with this country and it has taken less than one day.

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Day two a stunning lingering breakfast beside the water.  We walked along the canal and entered Saint Mark’s Basilica.   Photos were banned.  I can’t tell you what it looked like.  Words fail me.  Failed us. Even if I could somehow describe it you wouldn’t believe me.  All I could think to do was cry.  And so I did.  Deep Inside it’s magnificence I lit a candle then cried some more.  If God resides inside any church it’s that one. 

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We rode a gondola at sunset. Our gondolier sang parts of O’ Sole Mio and Volare.

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Dinner was 4 cheese Ravioli then Gelato, strawberry this time.
 One more stroll then it’s off to bed. Tomorrow we go to Assisi.